Wednesday, March 11, 2020
In an ideal world, nobody would suffer from acne, but as it is, both teenagers and adults have to live with it on a daily basis. In fact, about 50 million Americans are affected by acne every year, and it's estimated that 20-40% of those affected are adults. So, what's the deal? We asked four dermatologists to weigh in on the causes and treatments of adult acne, what products can help prevent and treat it, and in-office treatments you can get from your local MD.
So what causes adult acne? There's no clear-cut answer on this since there are so many factors that could be attributing to it. Genetics, lifestyle, habits, food, and more. Any of the below factors could be to blame for your pesky acne.
Hormones and stress can both trigger breakouts. "Hormonal acne tends to come and go, including around your period or when you’re under stress. Hormones can trigger oil production to increase and flare up acne," explains Dendy Engelman, MD, a New York City based dermatologist, and stress increases cortisol levels, which can worsen acne. In teenagers, hormonal acne typically manifests itself on the forehead, but for adults it's more commonly found along the jawline and on the cheeks.
Pollution damages skin easily. "Nanoparticles can be up to 20 times smaller than human pores, allowing them to easily penetrate the skins surface without an adequate layer of protection," explains Dr. Engelman. "The harmful effects are directly correlated to clogged pores, inflammation, and often times, allergic reactions."
Beauty products are one of the most common causes of adult acne. "Moisturizers, sunscreen and especially makeup that may be too thick and oily may clog pores resulting in acne," says Tess Mauricio, MD, a dermatologist in Beverly Hills. Opt for products that are labeled non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) and non-acnegenic (formulated specifically to not cause acne), and be sure to clean your makeup brushes at least once a week.
"When applying hairsprays and other hair care products, make sure to shield your face," adds Valerie Harvey, MD, a dermatologist in Virginia. "If the spray comes in contact with your facial skin, it can cause acne."
Food can affect your acne. "There is some research that shows foods with a high glycemic index (i.e., food that spike blood sugar) can trigger hormones to help your body absorb the sugar," says Dr. Engelman. "Dairy has also been elucidated as causing or exacerbating acne. Interestingly, skim milk is worse than whole milk." Additionally, Dr. Mauricio notes that there is data that shows that eating foods rich in iodine, like shellfish, can trigger acne in most people.
Bad skincare habits don't help. If you frequently touch your face, forget to take off your makeup, sleep on dirty pillowcases, pick at your pimples, and skip your face cleanser (or wash your face too often!), you'll be much more prone to breakouts. All of these things will add debris to your face, blocking the skin's barrier and putting it in contact with bacteria.
Beyond tailoring your lifestyle, there are a few at-home solutions and products you can use to cure your adult acne. Below are our top picks for the best adult acne-fighting treatments:
1. Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment"Retinol, the active form of vitamin A in the body, increases cell turnover, builds collagen, improves discoloration, hydrates skin and reduces acne," explains Dr. Engelman. "This allows older, clogged cells to shed and normalize the turnover rate for new cells to prevent [pores] from clogging, targeting acne before it begins.
Differin contains a "powerful retinoid to clear acne and prevent future blemishes, as well as working to prevent acne scarring," says Dr. Engelman. "It is also the first retinoid available over-the-counter, and it is gentler compared to others."
2. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Acne TreatmentBenzoyl peroxide or BPO is an antimicrobial that helps destroy all the acne-causing bacteria in your skin, keeping pores clog-free "by killing bacteria, drying excess oil, and forcing the skin to shed dead skin cells," says Dr. Engelman.
Tackle acne-causing bacteria before and after it appears by applying this acne-fighting treatment onto blemishes, whiteheads, and blackheads for a clear complexion in as little as three days.
3. Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant"Salicylic acid has antibacterial, anti-comedogenic, and keratolytic properties, which makes [it] ideal for zapping stubborn whiteheads and blackheads," says Dr. Engelman.
Banish dead skin cells to reveal your smoothest and most radiant skin of your life by using this liquid salicylic acid exfoliant once a day (or twice a week if you have sensitive skin). Not only will it help wash off dull skin, but it will also unclog and clear out congested pores.
4. First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance PadsGlycolic acid is an exfoliant that helps remove dead cells from the surface of your skin. A glycolic peel pad is often times used to help improve the texture of the skin, making it appear smoother and more radiant.
These pads contain the right amount of acid that exfoliate, tone, and brighten the skin, yet won't irritate sensitive skin types. Swipe one across your face once a day for visibly healthier skin.
5. Perricone MD Oil-Free Hydrating CreamAcne-fighting treatments can dry out skin, causing even more inflammation and acne — so while moisturizing acne-prone skin may seem counter-intuitive, it's important. An oil-free formula like this one will help nurture the skin without causing more bumps and breakouts.
What to do when at-home acne remedies aren't working
Beyond the above-mentioned at-home solutions, sometimes, you need to call in the experts to get rid of stubborn acne. Dermatologists and your primary care provider can help you manage your adult acne with a few remedies:
A cortisone shot is "the quickest fix by your dermatologist," says Engelman. "This is the best option for same day results – within 6 hours the pimple should be gone."
Blue light therapy kills bacteria within pores, and hydrafacials (a gentle and painless way to exfoliate), chemical peels, and laser resurfacing treatments.
"Antibiotic tablets (oral antibiotics) are usually used in combination with a topical treatment (retinoids) to treat more severe acne," like cystic acne that occurs when your skin becomes infected and the acne goes deep into your skin, creating a tender (and oftentimes painful) bump of pus, says Dr. Engelman.
Oral contraception for women should help balance hormone levels and essentially clear the skin. In fact, 55% of females clear after six months of use, according to Carl Thornfeldt, MD, an Idaho-based dermatologist. If not, Dr. Engelman recommends Co-cyprindiol, a hormonal treatment that can be used for more severe acne that doesn't respond to antibiotics.
A regimented skincare routine is important, apart from using a tailored acne treatment. "Do not quit too soon," says Dr. Mauricio. "Results from your products and treatments may take some time. If you notice redness, peeling, and/or sensitivity, stop your products for a few days until skin feels normal, then restart and use products less frequently."